India Today

There is no way anyone can miss India’s newfound economic success. You only have to stand by the roadside and look at the new and shiny cars zooming up and down.

Even in a relatively small place like Pondicherry, in the past if you wanted to see which new models had come into the market all you had to do was to stand by the Ganesh Temple on a Friday evening. As Fridays are considered auspicious people bring their new cars on that day to be blessed and from then on to be protected by the gods. An important part of the ceremony is the ritual which drives away the evil eye. Two ripe lemons are placed in front of the front wheels after which the driver starts the vehicle and crushes them. Having driven away the demons of envy the car is now ready for the road.

Until a few years ago you could see at the most four or five cars standing patiently on the road in front of the temple waiting to be blessed. Today the line extends and covers up the entire length of two blocks. Where ten years ago there used to be a line of beggars today there is a long queue of shiny new SUVs. It makes you feel warm and proud inside. This is new India.

Of course, this new inner glow lasts only for a short while. It evaporates the moment you are stuck in a traffic jam. As it happened to me in the first week of November. I had a train to catch at 10 pm at Chennai Central Station and starting off at 4.30 I knew I had enough time to stop and have bite on the way and still have time to spare. After all it was only a 3-hour drive. Hardly had we reached the half way mark that the car slowed down and we found ourselves at the end of a line of vehicles which seemed to be several kilometres long. After an hour during which we had moved hardly a few metres someone told us that the traffic jam was due to a new flyover which was being constructed in the centre of Chennai. The roads around the site of the flyover were blocked in such a way by building materials that there was enough space for only one vehicle to pass at a time. The cause of the jam was at the heart of the city and there I was, sitting in the car, in the middle of nowhere, surrounded by paddy fields, moving for five minutes every now and then.

After five hours I managed to reach the station, having almost lost hope of catching my train. After a nail-biting last leg, during which I had started phoning friends and relatives on my mobile phone to say that I wasn’t coming after all, I finally made it to the platform at a few minutes before ten o’clock where my train was ready to leave.

It wasn’t as if I had been stuck in an ordinary traffic jam where one car waits behind the other, in a neat line, until the jam unblocks. This was a case where the entire width of the two-lane road was packed with cars, buses, vans, autorickshaws, motor-cycles and lorries, gathered in one chaotic mass, where each vehicle was trying to overtake the vehicle in front of it. It was one big jumble which resembled a giant Chinese puzzle where every car was doing its best to make it impossible for the others to make a single move.

Sure India is no more a poverty-stricken country and a proof of that is that there are so many bright new cars on the road, and so much extra cash that people are busy doing up the interiors of their vehicles in style. But we have neither the roads nor the road-sense to use them. So, let us think twice before we pat ourselves on the back. And maybe it’s time to invent a new expression – “a curse in disguise”.

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Rice Fields, Pondicherry

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An Exhibition in London

One often wonders about why Sri Aurobindo remains so unknown in the world. Even in India those who have heard of him only know him as a yogi and when people speak of the Freedom Movement he is rarely mentioned. Outside Pondicherry and Kolkata if you mention his name to anyone who was alive before the independence of India you will get a response that sounds like “Yes, but he left the scene, he abandoned the cause…” The idea of holding an exhibition on Sri Aurobindo in London was born from this desire to acquaint the world with the true role he played in Indian history.

The Nehru Centre, which is the cultural wing of the Indian High Commission, accepted the proposal and work started in right earnest when the Golden Chain Fraternity Trustees agreed to financially support the project. Although it seemed like a fairly simple job at first it turned out eventually to be quite a complicated affair. One thing however was perfect – the timing. We had the week of the August Darshan which was also the week of the Independence Day. It suited everyone fine; those connected with the Ashram were happy and so were those connected with the Indian High Commission.

The Indians of London had lined up an extraordinary array of cultural programmes and the city was buzzing with activities all summer to celebrate the sixtieth anniversary of independence. Most activities of this festival however remained in the field of dancing, music, cinema and cuisine. Fortunately the Indian High Commission had thought of holding a series of programmes to pay tributes to the great freedom fighters of our country during the month of August. In the preceding week there had been films on Mahatma Gandhi, Subhash Chandra Bose and Sardar Vallabhbhai Patel. This exhibition on Sri Aurobindo became a continuation of the same theme.

The preparations for this exhibition, which had already been shown in Paris some years ago, started right from January even though it was to be held in August 2007. The Golden Chain Fraternity took the responsibility of mounting these large photographic prints and sending them over to London. This exhibition gave me the occasion to contact and communicate with the various centres and come to know of their various activities. Keeping in mind the High Commission’s desire to also have a British speaker, to promote Indo-British friendship, we had chosen Sonia Dyne who is a member of Auroville International and who had headed the Sri Aurobindo centre at Singapore for twenty years. We also worked in association with the Sri Aurobindo Society of London and they invited Gopal Bhattacharya as one of the speakers of the programme.

The day of the opening was a day of great stress because fifty pictures had to be hung in half a day. The fact that the work was finished an hour before the inauguration was in itself a miracle. The scheduled time of the opening was fixed for 6.15pm but people started coming right from 5.30. There were devotees from the various centres of London as well as Indians who were curious to know more about Sri Aurobindo. It was wonderful to meet other former students who gathered in the hall with their friends and family.

The inauguration was done by Mrs. Monika Kapil Mohta who is the Director of the Nehru Centre and also the Minister for Culture. It was indeed a proud moment when she announced that this exhibition was being held in collaboration with the Golden Chain Fraternity which is the alumni organisation of the Sri Aurobindo International Centre of Education. The inaugural lamp was lit by Mrs. Mohta, Sonia Dyne, Gopal Bhattacharya, Soumen Datta (Chairman of the Sri Aurobindo Society London) and me.

The next part of the programme was held in the auditorium. There were two talks – the first one was by Sonia Dyne on “The Concept of Freedom in Sri Aurobindo’s Thought” and the second one was by Gopal Bhattacharya on “Sri Aurobindo’s Contribution to the Political Freedom of India”. Between the two talks there was a screening of the CD “The Genius of India” which is made by a team from Auroville. The three items were so different one from the other that it gave a variety to the evening’s programme.

The stage where the talks took place had been decorated with a large bunch of flowers which were placed next to two photographs of Sri Aurobindo. The first one showed him as a boy when he was living in London and the other was the one taken in Pondicherry in 1950. We all felt that the evening was really very special because at last Sri Aurobindo was being celebrated in the city where he grew up. When you think of it he was indeed a Londoner.

The next day we held a private and informal programme of poetry reading. It was truly an enjoyable afternoon as each one read out his or her favourite poems. We then read “A God’s Labour” taking turns to read out a stanza each. We ended the session by reading from Savitri. As we were sitting in a circle we passed the same copy of the book and each one read until he or she came to a full stop.

Ironically, on the Darshan day the exhibition was closed because being the National Day all institutions and offices connected with the Indian Government were closed. This meant that effectively we had only three and half days of exhibition. The last day amply made up for the lost day as something totally unforeseen happened.

A few days before the opening of the exhibition I was told not to bring down the pictures on Friday 17th as it had been planned earlier because there was going to be a talk by Shashi Tharoor, formerly of the United Nations, on the soft powers of India. This talk was going to attract a lot of people and if the photos were still there those who would start gathering in advance would have an opportunity to see it.

Shashi Tharoor’s talk was held in the auditorium but while the people were waiting for the programme to begin a certain number of them came in to see the exhibition. Among them were many young students studying in London and a large number of businessmen who had settled in London several decades ago. When the programme was over the VIPs were escorted into the exhibition hall and the doors were shut.

Being a private dinner it actually became a private viewing of the exhibition for people like the Indian High Commissioner, Lord Meghnad Desai, Lord Malloch-Brown (Minister for India, Africa and the UN) and Shashi Tharoor. I could only marvel at the way the Divine Grace works. However hard I had tried I would never have managed to get such important people to come to the exhibition, but as it happened not only did they all come but they spent several hours in that hall, and I was later told, some of them saw each and every picture.

Many came and expressed their appreciation of the overall beauty of the exhibition. The fact that the photos were all of the same size created a harmonious effect, also the black and white pictures, with so many tones of grey looked very artistic against the lavender background on which they were displayed. The captions were short which made it easy for everyone to read. The general public who had only heard of him did not even know that there were photos of Sri Aurobindo in his youth. Many remarked how he had physically changed after he came to Pondicherry. And no one failed to notice how there was something striking about his eyes in all his photographs. “He seems to be looking into the future with his physical eyes,” some people commented.

No account of this exhibition would be complete without a mention of the invaluable help given by Pragna (80) and her entire family. Every time a difficulty came up they extended a helping hand. Several former students gave their time and energy for the work of preparing the photos and the captions and in this way we found an occasion to come together to do something constructive.

I can still remember how in 2001 Vilas and I were walking down Oxford Street in London and she suddenly said “Come, I’ll show you something interesting.” We kept walking until we came to a very stately house. Vilas pushed the door a little and we both put our heads through the opening. “Look,” she said “there is a bust of Sri Aurobindo here.” Indeed, it was such a joy to see that bronze bust after having walked through elegant shopping districts and a leafy park, all very English. That house was The Nehru Centre. As we walked away that day, making our way to the tube station I would never have imagined that one day I would be standing inside the main hall, surrounded with photos of Sri Aurobindo.

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Matri Karuna Vidyalaya

Every teacher in the world knows that the real sense of achievement comes not when one has helped a bright student to do exceptionally well but when one child who is unable to learn has been helped to make even a small progress. For Sri Aurobindo Education Society, the education wing of the Delhi Ashram, their project “Matri Karuna Vidyalaya”, started in April 1999, is their way of helping the weaker section of society take a small step forward. And this achievement is as important as all their long established schools.

Continued…

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Frangipani, Delhi

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Lilies, Tokyo

Lilies, Tokyo

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Hollyhocks, London

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Soft Powers

The crowds at the Nehru Centre on the evening of the 17th August were not for the exhibition on Sri Aurobindo which was being held on the ground floor. No, they were, in fact, for the talk that was going to be given by Shashi Tharoor. For once there were young people waiting in the foyer instead of the usual venerable and scholarly types that one gets to see there. Obviously, this was an unusual event.

After fighting to get a seat, when the auditorium was opened, I managed to get a place to sit on the steps of the stage. So I literally got a “wings-side” view of things. But after all that running around and pushing around I was a bit disappointed at the end of the talk because I didn’t get what I had expected.

The subject of the talk was “The Soft Powers of India” and I had been told that Shashi Tharoor was going to talk about the spiritual powers of our country. Ah, I had thought, at last someone has understood that our true strength lies in our spiritual powers. Even the High Commissioner who made the introduction said the same thing but somehow Shashi Tharoor himself did not mention the word “spirituality” even once during that talk.

Firstly, the talk was little more than a reading out of his own article which had come out two days earlier in “The Guardian”. And secondly, he seemed under so much pressure to perform. It was a performance on stage rather than a sharing of thoughts. There was a joke every five minutes which seemed to say that he did not have faith on the attention span of his audience, as if he was afraid that they would walk out if he didn’t make them laugh.

It was only when the question-answer session started that the evening got interesting because that is when he became himself, he was no more the performer. The questions came from the young who had a genuine desire to know what the future of India was going to be. And not only did he answer those questions admirably well but also, at last, he was speaking from his heart.

And this question-answer session saved the evening in more than one way. It was in answer to the last question that at last he pronounced the word “spirituality”. I wondered why it was so difficult for him to speak of spirituality.

One can’t be too harsh on Shashi Tharoor. After all, a celebrity in our world has to give to the audience what it wants. As for why he didn’t speak of spirituality, one can find an explanation. He did not say it in so many words but it was implied between the lines. When he spoke of the religious diversity of our country he implied that there was something beyond religion that kept this vast ocean of humanity together.Although he did not say it, one can understand that this entity that one can’t define is certainly what, in essence, is at the heart of every religion and those spiritual values are what all Indians have in common.

And finally, I hope that when he went downstairs, for the private dinner which was being hosted for him and the special invitees, he saw the exhibition on Sri Aurobindo and read what the great revolutionary had written about the real soft powers, the spiritual powers, that had guided his life.

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Apples, London

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Front Garden, London

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Open Gardens Day

We had been looking forward to this open garden day for an entire year having missed it the last time. Organised by the Mapesbury Residents’ Association, the Open Gardens Day was held on Sunday17th June 2007.

Coming from India, the whole concept is new to me. The experience of actually walking into someone’s back garden and admiring their gardening skills was something absolutely novel and truly eye-opening. Not because people don’t invite each other but because there are so few private gardens in the cities.

The first thing that strikes an Indian coming to London is the harmonious blending of urban life with nature. You can’t get more urban than London but also you can’t find yourself more in the heart of nature here than in any other city in the world. You can get out of a tube station in Central London and in a matter of five minutes be in the middle of trees and flowers and hear birds calling.

Everyone knows that India is taking giant leaps and is now is no more as poor a country as it used to be. But this new affluence is bringing in uncontrolled urban development. In all this euphoria of building people have forgotten to include islands of greenery in the cities and there is no place for gardens at all. One can not justify it by saying that the developing countries need to think of more basic things such as living space because even in a country like Japan where space is severely limited there is always a little garden or a park in the cities.

On the Open Gardens Day what a joy it was to stand in a garden just behind the street where we live and to see a carefully tended patch or a lovely wisteria creeper. It was not only the happiness of discovering the secret gardens hidden from the eyes, behind the houses that we pass everyday but also the warmth of being welcomed into the homes of people who live in such close proximity but who are totally unknown to us.

If there is anything the world should learn from Britain then surely it is this strong attachment to nature. This concept that a garden is as much a part of your home as your living room needs to be exported, as well as the idea of doing things as a community. Clearly, only an island country knows that no man should behave as if he were an island because there is nothing to gain from that.

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Sweet peas, London

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An Evening in London

Last night we went to a delightful programme at the Nehru Centre in London. When I read the programme I didn’t know what to expect. It said “Conversation with Sharmila Tagore”. I made up my mind to go because I have always thought of her as one of the most beautiful women in Indian cinema. The pleasant surprise when the programme started was that not only is she still very beautiful but also that she was very articulate.An hour or so later when we came down from the auditorium I had changed many of my ideas about several subjects – Indian cinema, cinema actresses but mostly about her as a person. Fortunately, the questions which she was being asked in this live interview were coming from an eminently qualified person as Nasreen Munni Kabir. Fortunately too Sharmila gave a lot of importance to the experience she had with a director like Satyajit Ray considering that the audience was mainly made up of elderly people who were educated and cultured.

The one shining quality about this conversation with her was her frankness. She admitted that she was not aware that she had done anything extraordinary while taking some of the very bold steps for which she is famous. She married a Muslim Nawab although she herself comes from a Hindu Bengali family related to Abanindranath Tagore, chose a profession which was looked down upon by the educated class, continued to work in films even after she was married and had children. Not only did her celebrity marriage survive but she has brought up three children who are intelligent and independent.

I was quite surprised that so much wisdom came from a woman who had spent a life-time acting in films where brains have to be switched off. When asked to speak about her philosophy of life she pointed out that the secret of a happy life lies in having a clear goal in life and knowing what one wants. “But,” she continued “one must not start expecting from the life one has chosen the things that are not in it.” For example if one has married for money one should not cry because one did not get love, or if one has chosen to act in a film because there is a role which would give a deep emotional satisfaction then one should not complain that one did not earn any money from it. What an accurate observation of life and what a valuable advice.

It was very kind of her to have accepted to answer all the questions that people in the audience wanted to ask. What was the secret of her youthful looks? “I exercise and eat the right things,” was her answer. Thank you, Sharmila, for that lovely evening in London.

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Roses against a brick wall, London

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Road Safety

We live in an age where we have stopped to marvel at all the extraordinary things that happen around us. This is mainly because what used to be extraordinary has become common and within easy reach of everyone. The only time you look at the world with the eyes of wonder is when you go out of your own country and look at the way the others live.

Walking through the streets of London I often stop to admire the way the traffic moves. I find it incredibly heartening that drivers actually stop to let pedestrians cross the road even at cross-roads where there are no traffic lights. I know that there is a high number of fatal road accidents in the UK but it would be considered only a minor figure compared to the statistics in India. Everything is relative, as they say.

Why, I wonder, is it so difficult to even want a disciplined traffic in India? Why does everyone feel that we can not make people obey traffic rules?

The troubling truth is that those who actually know the traffic rules would form a very small minority in the entire population of any city or even a medium size town in India. The even greater amazing truth is that no one is bothered about this, not even the police. Teenagers drive scooters without a driving licence to go to schools. Most men in their 20s and 30s think there is something heroic in breaking traffic rules. Most people look at traffic rules as something the police forcefully subject us to.

Although India has gone ahead in so many fields there are many things which are still at a very basic level. Until recently people did not have enough money to buy cars and now there are more cars than road space. The new cars are there but not the knowledge to live in this new urban roadscape. When are people going to wake up and start re-organising their lives around this new situation?

In the meantime I stand in admiration as even the big red buses come to a halt when the tiny old woman puts her foot on the zebra crossing, on her way to the supermarket.

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Lilac, London

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Montreal Exhibition

Museum poster

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Cherry blossom, Tokyo

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Japan

This is our second trip to Japan and it is quite different from the first. This time we know where we are going and what to expect at the various places.

The cherry trees are not in bloom yet but we know that they will not take long to flower. The buds are already there and the cold is almost gone. In fact, today is the first day of spring.

it is difficult to be in a country where you don’t understand the language. But fortunately many of the signs are written in English. However much you may know about a culture theoretically there is always a point where the everyday experience counts. Visually one is at home because the outer appearance of things is so European but behind that there is a way of thinking that is not.

The National Museum was a wonderful experience and the new exhibits were interesting. It is very tempting to see the temples but one can’t see everything. The best is to plan and see only that which interests you. But in all the sight-seeing and admiration of man-made beauty the happy note is when one catches the beauty of Nature.

Outside the Museum we saw a little yellow bird sucking the honey from the first plum blossoms. I can not say which I found more fascinating, the larger than life bronze statues and the exquisite paintings on silk or that little yellow bird.

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Spring flowers, London

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